When something fails on an RV, the fastest way to fix it is to isolate the system and walk the most likely checks in the right order. This guided tool helps you troubleshoot three common problems without guessing.
This is a practical decision tool, not a replacement for your owner’s manual. If you smell propane, see burnt wiring, or suspect overheating, stop and get help.
Choose Your Issue
No Power: Quick Checks
1) Are you plugged into shore power right now?
2) Does the pedestal outlet have power and is your plug fully seated?
The issue may be upstream at the pedestal (breaker tripped, dead outlet) or your cord connection is loose.
- Reset the pedestal breaker (if available).
- Unplug and re-seat the cord firmly. Inspect for heat discoloration.
- If the outlet is dead, try a different pedestal or confirm park power.
Safety: If anything looks melted or smells burnt, stop and do not reuse that connection.
3) Are some outlets dead but others work?
A GFCI outlet is tripped and is cutting power to downstream outlets (kitchen, bath, exterior, etc.).
4) Is your main breaker panel showing a tripped breaker?
A breaker is tripped due to overload or a fault.
- Flip the breaker fully Off, then back On.
- Turn off high-draw appliances (AC, microwave, water heater electric mode) and retry.
- If it trips repeatedly, leave it off and have it inspected.
5) Are you trying to run power off the inverter?
Inverter output may be off, battery voltage may be low, or the inverter may be in fault mode.
- Check inverter display for fault codes or “low voltage” warnings.
- Confirm your batteries are charged and disconnect switch is on (if equipped).
- Some RVs only power select outlets on inverter. Confirm which outlets are on inverter.
If shore power is confirmed good and everything is still dead, the issue may involve the transfer switch, main breaker, or a connection upstream of the panel.
- Confirm your RV’s main breaker is seated and not tripped.
- If equipped: listen for transfer switch click when switching shore/generator.
- At this point, a qualified RV tech is recommended to avoid electrical risk.
No Water: Quick Checks
1) Which water source are you using?
2) Is the campground spigot on and is your hose pressurized?
No pressure at the source, a kinked hose, or a bad connection at the spigot.
- Check for a kinked hose or closed spigot.
- Re-seat the hose connections and verify water is flowing at the spigot.
- If using a pressure regulator, ensure it is not clogged or failed.
3) Do you have water at some faucets but not others?
A fixture aerator, inline screen, or faucet cartridge is clogged (often after reconnecting hoses).
- Remove and rinse the faucet aerator screen.
- Check shower head screen and any inline filter screens.
- If it started after winterizing, confirm bypass valves are set correctly.
4) Is the city water inlet check valve stuck or leaking?
A stuck city inlet check valve can block flow into the RV.
- Try a different hose/regulator to rule out restriction.
- If the inlet is visibly leaking, the check valve may be failing.
- If you are not comfortable servicing the inlet, have a tech replace it.
If the source is pressurized and you still have no flow, check your onboard filter and any winterization/bypass valves.
- Replace or bypass a clogged inline filter (if equipped).
- Confirm water heater bypass valves are set for normal use.
- Confirm fresh tank fill and winterize valves are in the correct position.
2) Is your fresh tank actually filled and is the pump switch on?
Empty tank, pump switch off, or a disconnected/closed valve.
- Confirm tank level is above empty.
- Turn the pump on and listen for it running.
- Confirm any tank/pump valves are in normal position.
3) Does the pump run continuously without building pressure?
Air leak on suction side, empty tank, or pump lost prime.
- Confirm tank is not empty.
- Check suction line fittings and pump strainer for air leaks.
- Open a faucet and let it run while pump primes, then close.
If the pump builds pressure but you still have no water at fixtures, the issue is likely a closed valve, clogged filter, or fixture restriction.
- Check and replace onboard filters if equipped.
- Confirm winterize and bypass valves are set correctly.
- Check faucet aerators and shower head screens.
Fridge Not Cooling: Quick Checks
1) What power mode are you trying to run?
2) Is propane on and do other propane appliances work?
Propane supply is off, empty, or not purged. The fridge cannot ignite reliably without stable gas flow.
- Confirm tank valve is open and propane level is sufficient.
- Light the stove briefly to purge air from the lines, then retry fridge.
- Check the fridge panel for an ignition error indicator.
3) Is the fridge showing an error or failed ignition?
Low 12V supply, dirty burner area, or airflow/venting issues can prevent stable ignition and cooling.
- Confirm 12V battery power is healthy (controls need 12V even on propane).
- Check for a tripped fuse feeding the fridge control board.
- Ensure exterior vent area is clear and not blocked.
Absorption fridges take time. If you just started it, cooling can be slow, especially in hot weather.
- Give it several hours to begin cooling, longer in heat.
- Confirm RV is close to level. Off-level operation can reduce cooling performance.
- Ensure vents are clear for proper airflow behind the fridge.
2) Do you have confirmed 120V power in the RV right now?
The fridge won’t cool on 120V if shore power is off, the breaker is tripped, or the outlet feeding the fridge is dead.
- Confirm shore power is active and breakers are not tripped.
- Check GFCI outlets (some RVs feed fridge outlets through a GFCI chain).
- If you cannot confirm 120V, switch fridge to propane temporarily if safe.
If 120V is confirmed but cooling is still poor, the issue may be ventilation, time-to-cool, or the heating element circuit.
- Give it time, especially after warm loading.
- Ensure exterior vents are clear and unobstructed.
- If it never cools on electric but works on propane, the heating element circuit may need service.
How to Use This Troubleshooter
Start with your symptom and answer the questions exactly as your rig is set up right now. This tool prioritizes the most common failure points first, which is why it begins with power source, connection, and reset checks.
If you change anything (swap water source, switch fridge mode, move from shore to generator), restart the flow and run it again. A correct diagnosis depends on the current state.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will this tool tell me the exact part I need?
It narrows the issue to the most likely causes and checks. If the results point to a component failure, confirm with your manual or a qualified tech before buying parts.
Why do you keep mentioning 12V when I’m on propane or shore power?
Many RV systems use 12V for control boards, valves, and igniters. A weak battery or blown fuse can cause “random” failures even when you have shore power or propane available.
What’s the first thing to check when multiple systems fail at once?
Start with power source and battery status. A single tripped breaker, GFCI, disconnect switch, or low 12V condition can make multiple problems appear at the same time.